The late, great Jay Sebring, hairdresser to the stars, stated that the most critical factor is the shape of the face and suggested there are essentially 4 types:
Mens Hairstyle Face Types
1. Long Face: for this face the hair should be cut lower on the top than other face shapes, but not necessarily shorter. The sides should be full in order to make the top of the head seem lower.
2. Round Face: this is often associated with a heavy person. The round face automatically has a compact appearance and usually needs thinning, by leaving more hair on the sides as well as on the top.
3. Square Face: similar to a round face as far as the design is concerned. Again the face is thinned by ensuring that the hair is full on the sides. This also helps balance off the jowly look. The hair can also be full over the top, but the fullness is not as critical as on the sides.
4. Triangular and Oval: Sebring says you can do just about anything with these shapes that the hair will permit.
From the Old to the New – the “Bad Boy” Look
Sound advice, but these traditional views are giving way to “anything goes” ideas on styling. Gone are the days of short conservative, crewcut, or long and unkempt. Modern styles range from spiked, to shagged, to bald – and an infinite number of styles in between. Independence and individuality is everything – men are now adopting styles to fit themselves and their personalities, rather than to fit in with their peer groups.
Website www.esebring.com suggests that the “bad boy” look is the latest trend and offers several suggestions for achieving this look;
The Curly Haired Bad Boy
Your hair must be curly or permed, really thick and well conditioned and/or moisturized. The cut should leave your hair long in the back and flaring at the top and sides. It should be cut in such a way that lets the hair evenly disperse when you shake your head from side to side...it might be an unkempt look, but it has to look right when it settles.
The Bad Boy Shag style/Beatles look
This style requires thick straight hair. Medium and fine hair can work if it is cut properly and textured for this exact look. Them style does not work well with hair that has a natural curl or wave. The hairstyle is a bob that is cut with care to allow this specific look, but kept without a comb. Get a good haircut that will allow you to not have to worry about combing your hair every few minutes. The Beatles were immortalized by this look in the 60s, when long hair that hung over the ear was the signal of an ultimate bad boy. This is a great wash and wear cut, but needs to the application of a good shine product every few days.
The Waxed Bad Boy - for short to medium length hair
This style is incredibly popular and can work with any age, hair texture, and hair type. This hair style has the same length for each hair on the top of the head. Only the top of the head has hair that is spiked. David Bowie helped to make this look popular by during one of his short hair periods. It is a style that can work for older men who are beginning to have some hair loss at the crown or in the frontal area. This hair do needs a hair styling gel that gives stiffness and lift for adequate separation. Make sure you use a shampoo that provides texture and gives your hair body.
For longer-haired bad boys
Fairly straight and longer hair can be worn in a "behind the ears" hair look. This style requires medium texture hair - it does not work at all for curly, very thick or wavy hair. For the older man, this hair style works with a receding hairline and can be worn by men of all age groups. This hair style looks best with a natural shine product.
The Bald and the Beautiful
All these bad boy looks are fine, but what if you are losing your hair? Do an Internet search on men’s hair issues and 95% of the results seem to be about dealing with hair loss! Whole industries have developed up around this problem, with an infinite number of “experts” offering miracle solutions. There are also many, many myths about baldness, its causes and possible cures . But let’s face some simple facts:
1. 95% of permanent hair loss is caused by male pattern baldness (androgenetic alopecia).
2. Approximately a quarter of all men begin balding by age 30 and 2/3 begin balding by age 60.
3. Male pattern baldness is not reversible.
So the only real solution to hair loss is to embrace it and deal with it. Hair loss can be minimized by keeping the scalp clean and stimulated and receding hair is best worn short and thin. But by far the best way to deal with receding hair is to go for the ultimate bad boy look by wearing your hair extremely short or completely shaved.
Black Men Can “Bump”
None have embraced the idea of radical baldness more than African American men, as evidenced by film stars such as Laurence Fishburne and myriad sports stars and rappers. In fact Black men, more than any others, now exemplify the adventurous, individualist attitudes of the modern male to hairstyling and haircare; from ‘fros to plaits, to dreadlocks, to cornrows, to puffs, to Chinese bumps - its all good!
Through the years and across the continents, Black males have maintained a unique relationship with their hair; the Black barbershop has always had a very special place in the social structure of Black communities around the world – a fact successfully exploited by Ice Cube in his “Barbershop” movies. In addition, Black male hairstyles, more than just being a fashion statement, have often taken on specific political, sociological or religious significance – from the Afros of the ‘60s, to the dreadlocks of Jamaican Rastafarians.
But however funky the style, maintenance remains the important factor – particularly in this case, given that Black hair tends to be more fragile than most. Black hair care has a frightening history, containing a litany of weird, wonderful and downright dangerous products that have been used to achieve a particular look; how many, many Black men and women ruined their scalps using heavy lye-based products to try to emulate the look of their White counterparts…?
Thankfully, those days are (probably) over and with a US Black hair care industry that was worth US$1.4 billion in 2003, Black men now have a wide range of scientifically-formulated products to available to them. They have no excuse for not looking after their hair - or for not keeping a hairless scalp clean and properly moisturised!!
Achieve a “Cutting Edge”
But how does any man choose from the wide variety of styles and products available to him? Well guys, there are some simple keys to getting the right look:
1. Know you hair – is it oily, is it dry, is it damaged?
2. Get a good stylist – find one you can trust.
3. Do your research - don't depend on your hairdresser to find the perfect do for you. You should know what suits you and what you like, so research different hairstyles. Look to pop culture to keep up-to-date on the latest men's hairstyles, by checking out entertainment or fashion magazines, watching music videos, and just becoming more pop culture savvy.
4. Ask questions – your stylist should be a great source of information, so make sure you tap into it. Jordan Dechambre at sharpman.com suggests that you should always ask the following questions:
· "Is my hair healthy?" Find out if you are doing the right things to look after it.
· "What’s my hair type?" Consult your stylist on your hair type and some product recommendations.
· "Are there certain ingredients I should look for?" Stylists will usually recommend hair care products from the line carried in their salon — which are often highly priced. Find out about the important ingredients in those products and you’re likely to find a cheaper version. Don’t be shy – its your money!
· "How can I make my hair look like you do?" Pay attention to what your stylist does, so that you can replicate it at home. How does he or she apply styling products? How much? How does he or she use the hair dryer? Ask for some "tricks of the trade." Again, don’t be afraid – you want to be able to look you best all the time, not just in the period after you leave the salon.
5. Bring pictures - when you've done your research and you know what you want, bring some pictures as examples of the hairstyle you want. Make sure your stylist knows exactly what look you're going for.
6. Be specific - stylists aren't mind readers; tell him or her exactly what you want and exactly what you don't.
7. Be firm - stand by your opinion and taste. If you don't like the way your hair is being cut, speak up! (Politely!!) You're paying good money, so make sure the job is done right.
8. Use scissors - if you're getting your hair cut as opposed to shaved (to achieve a bald look), it's better that your stylist/barber uses scissors rather than a razor.
Look Good, Feel great
Times are certainly changing; there is no doubt that having a great hairstyle is becoming increasingly important to the overall well-being of the modern male. Getting a great haircut can make the difference between feeling lousy about yourself, or feeling like you're the king of the world. So don't be afraid to experiment with something new whenever you feel bored. A change in hairstyle is not permanent, but can make you feel great for a long time. And if it goes disastrously wrong – hey, just shave it down to a sexy bald cut and start again! But whatever you do, always keep in mind this great piece of advice from Jay Sebring: “If it's done correctly, the hair cut should be so much of a part of the man that it's never conspicuous. You don't want women to say "Look at that guy's hair," even in admiration. Only, "Look at the guy."”
References:
1. Hair Care Basics, November 2001, Jordan Dechambre, www.sharpman.com
2. Men’s hair care: virile growth, Claire Briney, 18 Jun 2004, Datamonitor
3. Male Hair Style - Get the "Bad Boy" Look After Hours, The Hair Guy, www.eSebring.com
4. Perfect Hairstyles For Men, by Karin Eldor, www.askmen.com
5. What is a Great Hair Cut for Men, Jay Sebring, www.eSebring.com
